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I bought these tools to do a really simple wood carving project, so I chose something cheap, not thinking that they would be great quality. I was definitely proved wrong, though, with the Yasutomo knives. So great! Super sturdy--past woodcarving tools that I've used have had problems where the steel meets the wood, but these are just completely well made. The only thing that I take issue with is storage, when you have super sharp objects in a plastic bag, things can get a bit dangerous. But other than that, I love these things, they're great.
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**First off, these knives are designed for woodblock PRINTMAKING, and not designed for carving 3D elements or sculptures out of wood. they'll still work for it, but don't be surprised if the set doesn't come with a specific carving tool you're looking for, or if the blade snaps off because you were using it at any angle but the one they're designed for (which would be on a flat wood surface). still probably the cheapest tools you can get that will work decently for carving, though, so just take it as a warning.**I actually have 2 of these sets, because I broke the blades off a couple times when I was first getting started with woodblocks. But that was more my poor handling of them, then any testament to the quality of the blade. For anyone who's just getting started, this is A GREAT SET TO BUY. They're cheap, but not poorly made, there's enough variety of the tips in different sizes that you learn how they work really well. Also, since they're cheap, you don't feel that bad when one gets busted, because a whole set is cheaper than replacing a single higher quality knife.
As someone that uses them a lot, here's some tips:
ALWAYS KEEP THEM SHARPENED. You'll have to sharpen them regularly, luckily there's a sharpening stone included (which is great). If the blade gets dull, carving becomes way more difficult, and if you're using harder woods they'll be more likely to chip the blade, or snap it off entirely. not to mention the strain on your wrist and arm and hands will be hugely reduced by keeping it sharp.
Use pine when just getting started. Pine is a relatively soft wood, and very easy to carve, and even the harder parts of it (knots and other dark parts) aren't as hard as something like poplar or oak or even cherry. I know cherry is the traditional japanese woodblock wood, so some of you are thinking about it, but wait until you're decent enough with these tools to get a good set and then try cherry. otherwise you'll ruin your tools, and a perfectly innocent block of wood. Also there are printmaking plywoods that aren't bad, but depending on what you're doing a solid whole piece of wood is usually better than plywood (especially the kind you might find at a hardware store). In my experience the grains usually change direction with each layer, which can cause chunks to break off while carving that you didn't want, and the wood splinters more so harder edges are more difficult to get.
Don't force it. If the blade seems like it just won't move forward anymore, then it won't. I once got a blade stuck on a knot, tried forcing it, and almost took my eye out as the blade whizzed past my face. NEVER USE A HAMMER OR A MALLET on any chisel or carving knife that doesn't have a metal cap on the end of the handle, you'll ruin the knife, your block, and possibly hurt yourself or someone around you. if you see a big knot in your block, work around it, or use something like a dremel with a diamond-tip bit(very carefully) to remove what you have to, but most of the time it's best to just work around it.
Don't use them (or any wood carving tool) on linoleum. I'll admit, I use them in a pinch when I have too, but it's not smart. Printing Linoleum is made with powdered limestone and other minerals, and while yes when they're sharp these knives will cut through it like butter (which is also sometimes dangerous if it gets away from you), the constant grinding against these minerals as you carve rapidly diminishes the life of the blade and will mean you have to sharpen them more frequently. A speedball knife is still the better tool for linoleum.
Sort of basic tips for all beginning carvers: carve away from yourself (for safety, and you get better force and control behind your marks); carve away from your design (just because you drew a line, does not mean you or the blade are going to stop there, carve from the edge to open area, and do the same from the other side letting them meet in the middle); ALWAYS SECURE YOUR BLOCK, you can hold it down by hand, or use a bench hook, (vices and clamps might be a bit much though, and will probably ruin the printing surface), but make sure you have it firmly in place. that's the easiest way to have an accident that could hurt you or ruin your block.
And for anyone who strives for finer details, go buy a standard x-acto knife, and a box of 100 replacement blades, and use those to pre-cut any finer detailed areas then take out the wood with the chisels. pre-cutting will help you keep that hard edge, with less worry of wood splintering and taking a chunk of your design with it (unless you're going too deep), and is especially useful for spots that may be too small to fit a carving blade. I typically change the blade every time the very tip breaks off, but you can probably go for a little longer than that usually. Really, this is just another "keep it sharp" situation.
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